Ten cosmetic ingredients known to cause damage to the ocular surface and adnexa*
10 COSMETIC INGREDIENTS WE ENCOURAGE PATIENTS TO AVOID
Interestingly, the US only bans 11 chemicals for use in the formulation of cosmetics, while the EU (and formerly the UK) bans more than 1,300. While this does make our job as eye care professionals rather difficult when patients ask for succinct and efficient advice, it is, at least, possible to provide information about some of the worst culprits. Below are 10 key ingredients to avoid but remember that this is by no means an exhaustive list. It is worth noting the inclusion of terpinen-4-ol in this list, a key ingredient in many cosmetic tea tree oil-based products. It is also found in lid cleansers specifically designed to treat Demodex blepharitis as it has proved to be effective in killing demodex mites present on lash follicles.
However, the ingredient has also been shown to cause a toxic effect on meibomian gland epithelial cells in vitro. Because of this, it is always best to look at the overall risk-to-benefit ratio for any individual with a need to control their Demodex population, as well as to consider the appropriate minimum frequency and duration of use for each patient individually.
Please take a look and see if you are regularly using make-up with these ingredients.
1
Chemical name
Argirilene (Acetyl hexapeptide-3 or Acetyl hexapeptide-8)
What it does
A synthetic anti-wrinkle cosmetics ingredient. It is a peptide, which is a fragment of SNAP-25, a substrate of botulinum toxin, and has been developed as a topical
version of Botox, less effective but safer.
Why it's harmful to the ocular surface
Designed to cause a temporary paralysis of the superficial facial muscles and has been associated with ocular surface disease through impact upon blinking.
2
Chemical Name
Benzalkonium chloride (BAK)
What it does
5 Used to prevent or inhibit the growth and reproduction of microorganisms in finished products. It also functions as a foam booster and detergent, where it helps water to mix with oil and dirt so they can be rinsed away.
Why it's harmful to the ocular surface
Known to cause cytotoxic damage to conjunctival and corneal epithelial cells, resulting in signs and symptoms of ocular surface disease (OSD) including ocular surface staining, increased tear break-up time, and higher OSD symptom scores.15 Should be used with caution in dry eye patients and in patients where the cornea may be compromised.
3
Chemical Name
Carbon black
What it does
Carbon black is a dark black powder used as a pigment in cosmetics such as eyeliner, mascara and lipstick.16 It is produced by incomplete combustion of carbon-based products such as coal tar.
Why it's harmful to the ocular surface
Commercial carbon black, in particular, has organic contaminants such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which have been identified as human carcinogens.17 PAHs can also cause non-cancer toxicities, like reproductive and developmental toxicity.
4
Chemical Name
Chlorphenesin
What it does
A preservative and cosmetic biocide that helps prevent the growth of microorganisms and prolongs the life of a cosmetic.
Why it's harmful to the ocular surface
Toxic to human meibomian gland epithelial cells.
5
Chemical Name
Formaldehyde and formaldehyde donors (Quaternium 15, ureas, DMDM hydantoin)
What it does
Used to prevent or inhibit the growth and reproduction of microorganisms in finished products.
Why it's harmful to the ocular surface
Cause dose-dependent changes in the morphology, proliferation and Akt signalling of human meibomian gland epithelial cells, corneal epithelial cells and
conjunctival epithelial cells. 5 Studies suggest carcinogenic properties.
6
Chemical Name
Isopropyl cloprostenate (analogue of prostaglandins such as bimatoprost)
What it does
A synthetic prostaglandin analog that belongs to the same class of actives used originally on glaucoma patients. As a side effect, people noticed longer and
stronger eyelashes.
Why it's harmful to the ocular surface
Reported side effects include conjunctival hyperaemia, punctate keratitis, eyelid erythema, eyelid pruritus (itching), eye pruritus, skin hyperpigmentation, nasopharyngitis and ocular discharge
7
Chemical Name
Parabens
What it does
Parabens are a group of commonly used ingredients that acts as a preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. Methylparaben and propylparaben are the most commonly used. They are highly effective in preventing the growth of fungi, bacteria and yeast that could cause products to spoil, thus enhancing the shelf life and safety of products.
Why it's harmful to the ocular surface
Methylparaben and ethylparaben have been found to be toxic to human meibomian gland epithelial cells.
8
Chemical Name
Phenoxyethanol
What it does
Phenoxyethanol is used as a preservative in cosmetic products and also as a stabilizer in perfumes and soaps
Why it's harmful to the ocular surface
Found to be toxic to human meibomian gland epithelial cells.
9
Chemical Name
Retinols
What it does
Retinol (vitamin A) important roles in human reproduction and development and in maintaining good vision and healthy skin
Why it's harmful to the ocular surface
Two derivatives (retinoic acid and retinyl palmitate) should be avoided in cosmetics while retinol itself should not be used at high doses. Retinoic acid induced cell death, and significantly altered the expression of 6726 genes, including those involved in cell proliferation, cell death, differentiation, keratinisation and inflammation, in human meibomian gland epithelial cells.
10
Chemical Name
Terpinen-4-ol (or most effective ingredient of tea tree oil)
What it does
A major constituent of tea tree oil, thought to have strong antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Increasingly used in cosmetics to mask blemishes and to encourage collagen biosynthesis to improve skin elasticity and diminish minor concave acne scars.
Why it's harmful to the ocular surface
Has been found to be toxic to in vitro human meibomian gland epithelial cells even in low concentrations.
If you are looking for dry eye specific make-up that contain none of the ingredients listed below you can find them here: